Pomade

What is the difference between hair wax and pomade?

The main difference lies in their history. Modern hair wax evolved from traditional pomade. Within the industry, there is some overlap in what is referred to as pomade versus hair wax. That’s why it’s often necessary to read the product description to understand how the product is formulated and how it performs. 

Generally, pomades range from light to high shine, while hair waxes tend to offer a more matte finish. However, there are also pomades that deliver a matte look. Using pomade is an effective way to add gloss and shine to your hairstyle. Especially if you wear your hair short on the sides with a more matte texture, adding shine on top can create depth and dimension. 

The same applies if your hair is turning grey or fully grey/white. A touch of pomade can make the hair appear less dry and dull. 

A common myth is that pomade only suits slicked-back styles, but that’s not necessarily true. Pomade can be an excellent alternative to hair wax. If you wear a classic slick-back hairstyle, pomade is generally the easiest and most effective way to achieve a smooth, controlled look. The same applies to many pompadour and quiff styles.

Different types of pomades

There are two main categories of pomades: water-based pomades and oil- and wax-based pomades. The latter are sometimes referred to as old-school pomades because they were originally made with fats, oils, and waxes. It was from these traditional formulas that modern water-soluble pomades and hair waxes evolved. During the 18th and 19th centuries, when pomade and hair styling began to gain popularity in Europe, pure fats such as lard and even bear fat were commonly used. Vintage grease is another name associated with this heritage. Some brands feature a pig on their packaging as a nod to these origins. 

Water-soluble pomades

Water-based pomades are the most common and popular option today. The main reason is that they are easy to work with – both when applying and styling, and when washing out. 

They are strong enough to tame the hair, yet easy to rinse off your hands and out of your hair. If you have fine, soft, or thinning hair, a lighter water-based pomade is generally preferable to heavier alternatives.

Oil- and wax-based pomades

A major advantage of oil-based pomades is that they do not fully dry out. This allows you to reshape your hairstyle throughout the day without having to start over. The oils, fats, and waxes also have a conditioning effect on both hair and scalp. If you think of the film Grease from 1978, these are the types of pomades used extensively. They are ideal for slick-back styles and similar classic looks. 

You can easily run a comb through your hair during the day and adjust your look when using a vintage-style pomade with a grease and oil base. Today, modern pomades are more commonly based on beeswax, petroleum, and lanolin. 

Tips for styling your hair with pomade

Hair styling can generally be broken down into three main steps. You may start with towel-dried hair straight out of the shower or with completely dry hair. Begin by pre-styling as usual with a grooming spray, tonic, or saltwater spray if desired. Once you’re satisfied with the volume and have reduced any frizz, move on to styling your hair with your chosen pomade. Be sure to warm the pomade thoroughly between your fingers before applying it to your hair. 

You can shape your hairstyle using your fingers or with a wide styling comb or brush. There are even special “pomade combs” designed to create clean separations and defined lines in the hair. 

Once you’re happy with the look, you can set your hairstyle with a hairspray.

If you have fine or typical Scandinavian hair, heavy oil- and wax-based pomades may weigh your hair down too much and reduce volume. In that case, it’s better to pre-style properly and use a lighter water-based pomade on top to add structure and natural shine. 

Pomade can also be an excellent option for afro-textured hair. It helps condition the hair, reduce frizz, and effectively tame curls and coils. 

If you regularly use heavy styling products, it can be beneficial to wash your hair occasionally with a stronger cleansing shampoo. This could be a deep-cleansing shampoo or a scrub shampoo. It removes buildup that can accumulate on the scalp and in the hair, resulting in improved shine and a fresher feel for both hair and scalp.